A Tale of Two Iscas

by Alison Morton

Whenever I visit a town I’m drawn to the museum, especially (and sometimes exclusively) to see if there is any Roman stuff. This is what a ‘Roman nut’ usually does. Woe betide anybody coming in between me and tesserae, Samian ware or a nice bit of Roman concrete. Last year in Exeter was a special treat because it was the second of the twin Iscas, the other one I’d never seen.

The Romans established a large castrum (fortified camp) named Isca around AD 55 at the southwest end of the Fosse Way as the base for the 5,000-man Legio II Augusta (Second Augustan Legion) originally led by Vespasian, later Roman emperor. Twenty years later they moved to Caerleon in Wales, which was also confusingly known as Isca. To distinguish the two, the Romans referred to Exeter as Isca Dumnoniorum after the name of the local tribe and Caerleon as Isca Augusta.

I’d visited Caerleon decades ago as a student when I’d been working on the archaeological dig at Usk, and more recently when I was at a writing conference. But I’d never visited its twin, Exeter.

Exeter – Isca Dumnoniorum
The name is a Latinisation of a Brythonic name describing flowing water (Uisc), in reference to the River Exe. Like many early settlements Exeter began as a place of  dry land by a navigable river; in Exeter’s case on a ridge ending in a spur overlooking the Exe. The bonuses were a fertile hinterland, a river full of fish and access to a large protected estuary and the open sea. Although there have been no major prehistoric finds, these advantages suggest the site was occupied early. Coins have been discovered from Hellenistic kingdoms, suggesting the existence of a settlement trading with the Mediterranean as early as 250 BC.

Isca Dumnoniorum Castrum

In mid first century Exeter, a civilian community (vicus or canabae) inhabited by local tribespeople and soldiers' ‘unofficial’ families, grew round the Roman camp, mostly to the northeast.

When Legio II Augusta left around AD 75 to go north to fight tribes in Wales, the camp grounds were converted for civilian purposes; its very large legionary bathhouse was demolished to make way for a forum, basilica and a smaller-scale bathhouse.

In the late 2nd century AD, the ditch and rampart defences around the old fortress were replaced by a bank and wall enclosing a much larger area, around 92 acres. The course of the Roman wall was used for Exeter's subsequent city walls; the stones are a mixture of Roman and medieval. About 70% of this wall remains, and most of its route can be traced on foot.

The settlement served as the tribal capital (civitas) of the Dumnonii and Isca Dumnoniorum seems to have been most prosperous in the first half of the 4th century: more than a thousand Roman coins have been found around the city and there is evidence for copper and bronze working, a stock-yard, and markets for the livestock, crops, and pottery produced in the surrounding area.

Trade with the Mediterranean continued bringing luxuries like wine and fine pottery. In the 3rd century AD new stone wall and gatehouses were built. Rich people lived in townhouses with costly mosaic floors; other areas of housing fell into disuse or were converted into farmyards.

Display of pottery and glassware, Exeter Museum

In the museum, the Roman military presence is testified by hooks from legionary helmets, knives, armour hinges, armour tie hooks, armour buckles and hinged fittings, belt buckles, legionary apron fittings, strap ends, tent pegs, and horse harness fittings. These are all small things of life then, but precious to us now for the story they tell. But beside those, the cases display a rich variety of military and civilian basins, strigils, pots, jars, cooking implements, even glassware. And of course, tiles, mosaics, plaster and stone remnants alongside domestic rings, brooches, weaving weights, board games, keys and styli. And, of course, silver coins. As in any other part of the Roman Empire, the pickings show a rich diversity and sheer numbers of objects that even humble people possessed.

Display of military clips, ties and buckles, Exeter museum

In 410 AD the last Roman soldiers left Britain to defend Rome against attacks by hostile tribes. By then Isca’s suburbs were being abandoned; there are few remains from this time. Dates of coins discovered so far suggest a rapid decline: virtually none have been discovered with dates after AD 380. By around 500, the basilica had fallen down and Isca Dumnoniorum’s busy urban life was over.

Circling back to AD 75, when the Legio II Augusta soldiers strapped on their marching boots and filed out of the castrum gate, I wonder what the effect was on the Devonian Isca. The heavy military presence was lifted; the drinking, rowdiness, the casual brutality, the gambling, testosterone, the whoring and the unwanted pregnancies.  Many unofficial wives upped sticks and with their children followed the soldiers to their new home.  However, the economic effect must have been significant for the the innkeepers, brothels, tailors, weavers, leather and knife suppliers, laundries and local food suppliers and grain merchants.

Caerleon – Isca Augusta (Isca Silurum)
The Brythonic name Isca referred to the River Usk  which literally means ‘river of flowing water’ (tautology alert!). The suffix Augusta, an honorific title taken from the legion stationed there for 200 years, appears in the Ravenna Cosmography, a list of place-names covering the world from India to Ireland compiled by an anonymous cleric in Ravenna around ad 700. It’s also referred to as Isca Silurum to differentiate it from Isca Dumnoniorum and because it lay in the territory of the Silures tribe. However, there is no evidence that this form was used during the Roman period. Caerleon, the name we know today, is derived from the Welsh for "fortress of the legion".

Isca Augusta was founded by Governor Sextus Julius Frontinus during the final campaigns against the native tribes of western Britain, notably the Silures in South Wales who had resisted the Romans’ advance for over a generation.
It became the headquarters of the Legio II Augusta, a large fortress base on the typical rectangular castrum pattern and built initially with an earth bank and timber palisade. It remained their headquarters until at least 300 AD.

The camp interior was fitted out with the usual array of military buildings: a headquarters building, legate's residence, tribunes' houses, hospital, large bath house, workshops, barrack blocks, granaries and, unusually, a large amphitheatre.

The excavated amphitheatre

Britannia was one of the most heavily militarised provinces due to its frontier status and hostile neighbours. Isca Augusta is uniquely important for the study of the conquest, pacification and colonisation of the island. It was one of only three permanent legionary fortresses in later Roman Britain and, unlike the other sites at Chester and York, its archaeological remains are relatively undisturbed beneath fields and the town of Caerleon.

Excavations continue and one of the most exciting discoveries is a complex of very large monumental buildings outside the fortress between the River Usk and the amphitheatre. This new area of the canabae (settlement of traders, families and discharged soldiers) was previously completely unknown.

And in August 2011 it was announced that remains of a Roman harbour had been discovered in Caerleon.  I have a little secret about that. Walking by the fortress wall in the fine rain a month before, loving and absorbing everything, I bumped into a fellow walker. We chatted and he obviously caught on that I was a ‘Roman nut’.  He told me he was a member of the University of Cardiff faculty involved in digging the site. Poor man! I bombarded him with questions.

Mosaic and pottery finds, Roman National Legion Museum

But as he was speaking to another enthusiast, he told me they were developing excavations as there had been indications there was much more to find. There always is, of course, but his was a humdinger. He revealed that remains of a Roman harbour had been found in a meadow by the river.. All very hush-hush, so please not to speak about it. I almost jumped up and down, but did manage to keep my dignity. You can look through the gallery of pictures for more images of what Roman Caerleon might have looked like.

Most of the sites I have been to are ruins, but there is memory in those stones. Touching walls, walking on mosaics, breathing the air of the place and sometimes seeing the same view they saw.

Prysg Field Barracks

The walls of Prysg Field Barracks at Caerleon, the only Roman legionary barracks visible in Europe are gone, but the foundations are still there showing their outline.  The amphitheatre – the largest ever uncovered in Britain and once romantically (and mistakenly) said to have been the site of Arthur’s Round Table of Camelot – is grassed over. The timber grandstand which would have seated some 6,000 shouting, cursing and cheering legionaries and townspeople is no more.  These and the legionaries’ swimming pool, the make you wonder who the people were who trod the same pathways, swam in the pool, placed bets, got drunk, made assignations. The light grey sky, the misty rain, the waves and slopes of the landscapes, your hand touching the stone and concrete in a place where so many people had lived and worked two thousand years ago give you something that no book or picture or film can give you.

Sources:
Bidwell, Paul T. (1980). Roman Exeter: Fortress and Town. Exeter City Council.
Hoskins, W. G. (2004). Two Thousand Years in Exeter (Revised and updated ed.)
National Roman Legion Museum, Caerleon
University of Cardiff, Dr Peter Guest
BBCwww.bbc.com/news/uk-wales-14628286 [Accessed 20/2/2017]

For more on Caerleon discoveries see youtu.be/nwx00pe2HH8 [Accessed 20/2/2017]

[Photographs - author’s own, one time use allowed for this article]

~~~~~~~~~~

Alison Morton has misspent decades clambering over Roman sites throughout Europe. She holds a MA History, blogs about Romans and writing. Now she writes, cultivates a Roman herb garden and drinks wine in France with her husband of 30 years.

She writes the Roma Nova thriller series featuring modern Praetorian heroines. She blends her deep love of Roman history with six years’ military service and a life of reading crime, adventure and thriller fiction.

All five books have been awarded the BRAG Medallion. SUCCESSIO, AURELIA and INSURRECTIO were selected as Historical Novel Society’s Indie Editor’s Choices.  AURELIA was a finalist in the 2016 HNS Indie Award. The sixth, RETALIO, is due out in April 2017.

Buying links: alison-morton.com/books-2/buying-links/
Blogsite: alison-morton.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/AlisonMortonAuthor/
Twitter: twitter.com/alison_morton

Exeter Bread Riots 1854

by Jenna Dawlish

In 2011 there was rioting in London. It was a year before the Olympics was due to be held and the world watched as people from all classes rioted and looted. There was much discussion as to why it happened (the shooting dead of a young man by the police was the principle initiating reason).

However, it soon became clear that there was an underlying reason for the rioting, and that there were other soci-economic reasons. Young people were fed up of lack of prospects and money and this spilled onto streets.

Rewind about 150 years previously, to a small Devon town called Exeter. It's 1854 and the lower classes - known as the "underclass" are tired and fed up of the price of food going higher and higher. They end up rioting in much the same way as the Londoners.

I have transcribed the following from the newspaper the Exeter Flying Post. It describes the riots and the authorities' reaction to it. There was much discussion in 2011 about whether or not to bring the army onto the streets to deal with the riots. In 1854 they didn't hesitate!

The journalistic writing is very different to now - they give a full description that would be unheard of today, but it gives us a great insight into what happened. I hope you find it interesting.

Jan 12^th 1854 Exeter Flying Post

Riot at Exeter

A serious disturbance took place in this city on Monday. At about three o'clock in the afternoon a number of persons, consisting principally of women and children, but also comprising a great many men of that degraded class who have the credit, perhaps deservedly, or always being “up for a breach of the peace” when occasion serves, assembled in the West Quarter. They proceeded to the Lower Market, and from thence up <something> street and across South Street to the Cathedral Yard, the number increasing as they passed. There they commenced the work of destruction, the shop of Mr Barrett, baker, the windows of which were smashed, forming the first object of their attack.

Proceeding across the yard they passed up Catherine street, but here they did no damage. The shopkeepers, hearing of the disturbance which had commenced, put up their shutters. The police were also promptly on the spot and from fear of the civil force, whose efforts to keep the peace were most indefatigable, or some other cause, the mob saw fit to change their course, and direct their attention to other parts of the city. They accordingly passed back into South street, and soon after their appearance the shops were closed from end to end. At Mr Norton's the confectioner, a considerable quantity of glass was broken. The shutters had been put up with the expectation of those on the door, the glass in which was completely smashed. Several panes were also broken at Mrs Reed's.

Passing a long the Friars, and by Colleton Crescent they broke a window in Mr J C Sercombe's residence, form whence they went to the Quay, where the windows of Mr Sercombe's stores also suffered. The mob next passed on towards Holloway street. In Melbourne street a hucksters shop was plundered of its bacon , and permitted a freer access of light by the breaking of its windows. The shopkeeper, who is a cripple, could do nothing to prevent the depredation, and his wife, however much help meet, could not afford help enough for so extraordinary an emergency. The shop of Mr Bodley, baker at the bottom of Holloway street was completely devastated. The shutters were pulled down,and this having been accomplished, the mob commences throwing stones, and did not cease till the window had been altogether destroyed. A looking-glass and a watch were also broken by the stones, but nothing, we believe was taken. Passing up Holloway street the mob returned to the West Quarter, where the shop of Mr Barrett, was treated with similar severity. There were then between 200 and 300 persons assembled. The shutters here were also pulled down and broken, and the windows demolished, 41 panes of glass being destroyed. The shop of Mr Clapp, the the West Quarter, also received a visit ad 67 panes of glass were knocked to pieces.

The crowd thence passed on to the Bridge, and bent their fury on the shop of Mr Dann, the baker, of Bridge Street. Here the demolition was complete. The shutters, as in other instances, had been put up as a means of greater security; but they formed but a little obstacle. They were soon removed, the glass destroyed, and the sash broken in. A quantity of bread was also stolen, a great proportion of of the remainder thrown down and trodden on. Happily, Mr Dann's so had the presence of mind to carry off the money drawer, containing upwards of £40, which would no doubt have been rifled had it been left in the shop. While, however, he was doing this, he was exposed to a great danger, for large stones were constantly being thrown at him. The windows of the upstair rooms also sustained great damage. One or two looking glasses were broken, and a considerable quantity of furniture was much injured. 

The parties then proceeded into St Thomas.

There would no doubt have been a much greater destruction of property in the city, had it not been that the Mayor, with the most commendable promptitude, requested the service of the military, in consequence of which a detachment of the Third Light Dragoons was despatched at once from the Barracks to the scene of the disturbance. Unfortunately there was not at the moment a county a magistrate at hand, and they were therefore unable to pass the city bounds and quell the rioters there. A messenger was despatched for Mr Commissioner Bere who hastened to the spot; but in the mean time a great deal of damage was done. Mr Bickford, baker, has 30 panes of glass destroyed, and there were also a few things taken, but not of value; but the scene of the greatest destruction was the shop of Mr Dimond, baker, of Cowick street, which was attacked, by the mob with the greatest possible furor and amidst mingled shouting and yelling. The rioters were here engaged nearly half an hour. The shop door was shattered, and the window shutters having been pulled down, every pane of glass was smashed. A clock was broken, and also a large and expensive mirror. The stones passed through a window between the shop and an inner room; the sash of which was completely destroyed. The bread was also stolen; two or three boys got inside and threw it out to those who were in the street; a quantity of butter was taken, and those who felt so disposed helped themselves to preserves. Within, Mr Dimonds, and his family having been taking tea, the tea things were on the table; a woman came in, took took them up and threw them on the ground, breaking them to atoms. A looking glass was also taken from the mantle piece and dashed to pieces, Large stones were thrown through the windows of the upstairs rooms, and the furniture was greatly damaged. At the house of Mr Kay, in the same street, there was some damage done, and at Mr Norris's there were 42 panes of glass broken and the articles in the shop which were but little, the parties being poor, were taken. At Mr Will's the door having been opened, several of the party entered, and carried off bread; but not content with this, they hurled stones at the windows of the upstairs rooms on coming out.

On the arrival of Mr Bere, the Military having been requested to pass into St Thomas's the greater part of the crowd soon dispersed and dividing into various sections passed on by different roads.

The great went to Ide and Alphington, and thence to Mr Trood's. At Ide they did some mischief. At Alphington, which they reached about six o'clock, they attacked the shop of Mrs Tripe, baker. Notice having been received of their approach, the money and bread had been removed but the glass was demolished, and everything they could get was taken. They then went to Mr Wright's where the shutters were broken open and a quantity of bread was stolen. Some proposed to pass onto Mr Jones's huckster's-shop but others cried “no” and the counsels of the latter prevailing Mr Jones was permitted to keep his own in peace. A number of the most boisterous cried out “Let's go to old Troods; he shall suffer tonight,” and accordingly in that direction the party moved. On the way a few passed inside the gate of Mr Pitt, farmer of Matford; but the premises of Mr Trood appeared to possess a greater attraction for the mob; and at the suggestion of the one or two of the party Mr Pitt was left alone. Others appeared disposed to pay a passing call on Mrs Mallett, miller of Matford; but the idea of Mr Trood's premsises in the distance also served as a safeguard to Mrs Mallett. One or two called “on to Trood's” and the premises of the worthy miller were forsaken. Arrived at Exminster, the fury of the party knew no bounds. The gates of the yard were shut, but they burst them open and at once commenced their old work of glass smashing. They then effected an entrance into the house and ransacked all of the downstairs rooms. In the kitchen they broke the clock and demolished the earthenware. They also stole some silver spoons and seized on what meat they could lay hold of. Some proceeded to the cider cellar, where they partook to their hearts content, and let off a quantity – we heard two pipes – besides. Meantime Mr Bere, having having passed on with the soldiery to Alphington , ascertained the damage that had been there some and that the party had gone to Mr Troods. He accordingly passed on in an haste accompanied by the soldiery. The house was at once surrounded, but nevertheless some effected their escape, passing under the bellies of the horses and the soldiers had to use the flat end of their sword to prevent. Sixteen were taken to Exeter by soldiers and a search having been made after their departure nine more were found secreted and also taken to the county gaol. We regret to state that Mr Trood was to some extent injured but it is hoped that he will be sufficiently well to give evidence this (Wednesday) morning at the castle.

In the city the most active look out was kept by the police in various parts.; and by the end of a detachment of the military force who were headed by the Mayor, the lower part of the city was cleared. The soldiers were then drawn up in form of the Guildhall, and at about seven o'clock, perfect tranquillity having been restored, a portion of them were dismissed to the barracks. A picket only was kept, under the command of two non-commissioned officers; and they were relieved from time to time till morning when it was thought that their services were no longer necessary.

The energetic conduct of the authorities of the city and especially of the Mayor is deserving of all praise. There can be no doubt that it has saved the city form great destruction of property and perhaps from much injury to persons. The prompt exertions of Mr Bere are equally commendable; and the citizens are also deeply indebted to the excellent Superintendent of Police (Mr Steel) for his judicious arrangement of the force, and to the members of that body for their ready and untiring exertions for the restoration of peace.

About 9 o'clock on Monday night, an order was received by Mr Wolland, at the steam saw and turning mills, for 300 staves for the use of the special constables, and these were supplied before daylight the next morning.

The following notices from the Mayor were circulated through the city early on Tuesday morning -

“Exeter – The Mayor requests respectable Inhabitants forthwith to attend at the Guildhall, to assist in preserving the peace of the City. John Daw, Mayor

Exeter Jan 9^th 1854

Bread Riots – Some Riots having already taken place in this City in consequence of the high price of Bread, the Mayor and Magistrates of Exeter give notice, that they shall use the most vigorous measures to preserve the public peace, and to punish all who shall commit any breach of the same;and they call upon all the Inhabitants of Exeter and the neighbourhood, and particularly on all Masters and Heads of families, to afford their active and best assistance in maintaining in the public tranquillity and putting down all tendency to riot and disorder.

Guildhall, Exeter Jan 9^th 1854. JOHN DAW, Mayor.”

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Jenna Dawlish is the author of two Victorian novels partly based in Devon.

www.jennadawlish.com

Mols Coffee House - Exeter

This month, I am looking at a interesting building in the heart of Exeter, Devon called "Mol's" (below).

Mol's 

The four storey building sits overlooking Exeter Cathedral in the centre of the city and has a rich history. Visually stunning, it was built in the 16th century by the Cathedral authority, and throughout it's history has been used for a variety of purposes. First to house priests for the cathedral, and later as a customs house. The Royal Coat of Arms on the front was put there in 1596 to show it's official status as a customs house for the Crown. The Dutch-style gable was added very late on in 1879. Each floor has different style windows, which should make the building look strange, but somehow the building pulls it off, and still manages to look amazing.

It was reputed that Sir Francis Drake discussed battle plans for defeating the Spanish Armada in Mol's, and his family crest is displayed on the oak panelling on the second floor. However, recent research has shown that this was probably not true, and made up by one the Victorian era tenants who used the building as a gallery and wanted to get more people into the building.

However, it is believed that in 1588, Mol's was used as a place where Exeter city men discussed their contribution to the fleet that destroyed the Armada.

Drake Family Crest

Mol's is most remarkable for the fact that for over a hundred years it was a coffee house and all the proprietors were women:

1726 - 1752 Mary Wildy 
1752 - 1787 Margaret Wildier
1787 - 1789 Mrs Vinnicombe. 
1789 - 1792 Mary Murch. 
1793 - 1817 Miss Sarah Hurd (Heard)
1820 - 1832 Mrs Mary Commins - moved business to 253 High Street

Victorian postcard image of the second floor interior of Mol's

Some have said the building was named after an Italian man called Mol, but the name "Mol" being a short version of Mary is now known to be the reason why the building became known as "Mol's". 

Coffee houses were popular throughout this period as places where gentlemen could relax, read the newspapers and catch up on gossip. Though women were often coffee shop owners, it is unusual for six in a row. Mol's was very popular during this time, and often acted as a ticket agent for the Royal Clarence hotel next door. 

Since the coffee shop closed, Mol's has also been used as an apothecary shop, a shoe shop, stationers, jewellers, printers, gallery and map dealers. 

Cathedral Close, Exeter. Mol's is on the right,

These days the building is a gift shop for exclusive gifts and remains one of the most photographed buildings in Exeter.

Jenna Dawlish

www.jennadawlish.com