So how did folk keep warm without central heating, hot water on tap and modern clothing like padded down jackets? In this article, author Toni Mount discusses what winter was like over 600 years ago.
Firstly, let’s think about the weather itself five and a half centuries ago, before global warming as it affects us now. How cold were those long-gone winters? There was such a thing as the ‘Medieval Warm Period’ which reached its peak c.1000 in Europe, when it was possible to have vineyards as far north as York and the weather remained fairly mild until c.1300. Then things gradually deteriorated as Europe began its slide towards the ‘Little Ice Age’ when the River Thames often froze, particularly in the seventeenth century when London held ‘frost fairs’ on the solid river ice which could last for weeks. The winters of the late fifteenth century weren’t so extreme as that but very chilly all the same.
The best way to keep warm has always been to wear lots of layers rather than just an extra-thick layer or two, and English woollen textiles were renowned as the ‘thermals’ of the day. But wool tends to shrink when washed and is difficult to get dry, so medieval folk rarely washed their woollies. It’s also itchy if worn next to the skin so undergarments were made of linen which was more comfortable and easier to wash. Men wore ‘braes’ or drawers – like baggy boxer shorts fastened with a drawstring – and a long-sleeved shirt as their underwear. Women wore a calf-length shift or chemise, again with long sleeves and, possibly, items we would recognise today as a bra and tie-on-the-hip briefs. These aren’t mentioned in contemporary sources, which were mostly written by men, but a few examples of ‘unmentionables’ have been discovered, dating to the fifteenth century. Both sexes wore stockings or hose – long for men and fastened to the shirt; just over the knee for women and held up with garters.
Over the linens, woollen garments were worn in multiple layers, if possible: for men, a second woollen shirt with a knee-length tunic over it or, for the fashionable, a short doublet. I know anything which shows the knees in winter seems foolish but that’s fashion – I thought nothing of wearing a miniskirt in midwinter back in the day. Besides, it was usual to top the doublet with a long, loose gown and, for those wealthy enough to be fashion conscious, these garments would be fur-lined. For women, a woollen kirtle with fitted sleeves was a sort of under-dress with another wool gown worn over that, perhaps with flared sleeves to show the fur lining.
Everyone wore fur but which fur was dictated by the Sumptuary Laws, according to your status rather than your wealth. The idea of these laws was that your status – a noble, a lord, a knight, a citizen or a labourer – was instantly recognisable by what you wore. A noble wore silk velvet, lined and trimmed with some imported fur such as sable or white fox, even ermine if you were royal. Whereas a humble labourer wore homespun cloth lined with rabbit or cat fur. And other ranks were dressed accordingly. But these laws were flouted constantly: rich merchants could afford more sumptuous clothes than the cash-strapped sons of minor lords and in winter, keeping warm outweighed the law. Besides, folk left clothing in their wills to servants, friends and neighbours and fripperers sold second-hand garments with little regard for the law.
Hats – of fur or fur-lined – were a must for men. In The Colour of Malice, Seb acquires a fine thick hat which almost proves his undoing. Cloaks were worn by almost everyone but labourers probably had to get by with hooded capes since digging a ditch, ploughing a field or mucking out pigs would be impractical while wearing a cloak. Hoods were vital in wet weather – the umbrella hadn’t been invented yet – as were felted woollen cloaks to help keep out the rain and wind. Incidentally, hooded, felt cloaks were invented by the ancient Britons who understood the weather in these islands and knew how to make tightly woven wool textiles and felt them. These garments were an important export in Roman times, known as British or Celtic cloaks.
Gloves, boots and neck-kerchiefs, fur-lined if possible, would complete a winter ensemble with fur slippers for indoors. Did you know that Cinderella’s glass slipper – impossible anyway – was originally a fur slipper? It’s a French fairytale and ‘verre’ was the old word for squirrel fur as well as for glass but the older meaning was forgotten by later translators.
So medieval clothing may have been warm but how snug were their dwellings? Not very, I’m afraid. In winter, the poor might share their house with their livestock – animals up one end; people at the other. Above the animals was a good place for a kind of mezzanine or half loft to serve as a bedroom so that the animals’ warmth rose and took the chill off the sleeping quarters – a bit cramped, noisy and smelly, but it kept folk cosy in bed. But for those who didn’t keep livestock, what could they do to warm buildings which lacked modern insulation and central heating?
Medieval castles might look romantic but stone walls, unglazed windows and inefficient open fires made it difficult to keep draughty castles warm in winter. Heavy tapestries were hung in the most important chambers not only to look beautiful and advertise the owner’s wealth and status but to help insulate the cold rooms. Lesser folk made do with hangings around the bed. These thick curtains gave the sleepers privacy in what were often shared rooms and kept out the worst of the cold draughts from windows which were shuttered against the weather but usually without expensive glass. Before going to bed, large stones could be put in the hearth to heat, then wrapped in cloth and tucked amongst the linen sheets and woollen blankets to warm them before getting into bed – folk usually slept naked except for a night cap [worn on the head, not drunk from a glass]. Fur coverlets or sheepskins were an extra layer if available.
The most obvious way of keeping warm was to light a fire. Throughout the medieval period and into the Tudor period, for poor folk this would be an open fire in the centre of the room with smoke escaping through an opening in the roof above or even left to make its way through the thatch or turves. To have a fire burning in a hearth required the invention of the chimney.
Rochester Castle in Kent (photo shown Copyright Stephen C Dickson) dates to the 12th century and its fireplaces are still there in the Norman keep. By heating the stones as well as the chamber, these fireplaces made castle life more comfortable. But chimneys remained rare until the sixteenth century although town houses for the better off were coming to have such luxuries – Seb’s newly rebuilt house in London has two fireplaces with chimneys: one in the kitchen and one in the posh parlour, lit on special occasions only – but then his career is on the rise. Incidentally, I grew up in a Victorian terraced house with a fire in just one room downstairs – our bedroom windows froze over in winter! You get used to it.
In many medieval abbeys, the warming house was the only place monks could thaw their frozen hands and feet in the winter after hours spent writing, studying and at prayer. At Rievaulx Abbey, the warming room has a huge double fireplace which was kept lit from 1st November until Good Friday. The monks gathered there in the evening, probably chatting, although this wasn’t strictly permitted. The piers supporting the stone roof have been strengthened with an outer layer of stone, suggesting that the original timber roof – a definite fire hazard – was replaced with a stone vault which needed more support.
By the sixteenth century, heating the home wasn’t just a practical necessity: fancy chimney stacks and great ornate fireplaces had become a fashion statement and indicator of wealth. Chimneys, of course, could be seen by everyone, even the casual passerby, claiming ‘Look! See how rich I am!’ Hampton Court Palace is the most outrageous example of chimneys as a status symbol in Tudor England. At Framlingham Castle in Suffolk, appearances were more important than actually keeping warm and in the Tudor period numerous intricate and ornate chimneys were added to the castle roof, copying the royal palaces – but only two chimneys actually connect to fireplaces; the rest are only for show.
So now you know how to keep warm, are you ready to brave a medieval winter and join Seb Foxley in solving a new, chilling murder mystery: The Colour of Malice? Out now from Toni Mount and MadeGlobal Publishing.
The Colour of Malice Medieval London, 1482. A strange new weapon brings murder to medieval London. When the killings lead back to an enemy from his past, Sebastian Foxley must uncover the truth before another life is lost. https://mybook.to/colour_of_malice






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