Showing posts with label Coaching Inns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Coaching Inns. Show all posts

Monday, February 27, 2017

Dining out in Regency England: The Belle Sauvage

By Lauren Gilbert

La Belle Sauvage Inn, Ludgate Hill, London

My husband and I went out to dinner this evening and really enjoyed it. Dining out is usually a pleasure, and it is something people have been doing for generations. Lists of places to eat were published in guide books and The Epicure's Almanack which was published in 1815. Dolly’s Chop House and Lloyd’s Coffee House were well known names. I ran across one named La Belle Sauvage Tavern (also known as the Bell Savage Tavern), located on Ludgate Hill, with a long and fascinating history. As you will see, La Belle Sauvage was much more than a place to eat.

There is a record of a forged claim by William Lawton for 20 shillings against William Savage in the area, which resulted in Mr. Lawton being sentenced to an hour in the pillory and establishes the name of Savage as that of a citizen there. During the reign of Henry VI, in 1453, a clause roll (or close roll-administrative records created by the royal chancery) refers to the bequest of Savage’s Inn, which would indicate the existence of an inn as early as the 15th century. The inn also seems to have been known at some point as the Bell in the Hoop. The inn was a coaching inn at this point. There is an indication that in 1554 Sir Thomas Wyatt came to the Bell Savage in Ludgate for his rebellion, stopped to rest, couldn’t get into the city (which ended his rebellion), and rested at the inn until he could turn himself in at Temple Bar. In 1568, John Craythorne gave the right to possess the property to the Cutler’s Company (knife makers’ guild).

By 1584, the inn was known as the Belle Sauvage. Plays were staged in the yard of certain inns during this period, and were staged at the Belle Sauvage, including a performance of Marlowe’s Doctor Faustus and (possibly) some of Shakespeare’s plays; there is an indication that Love’s Labours Lost was performed there. In 1616, John Rolfe and Pocahontas stayed at the Belle Sauvage during their visit from America. (Subsequently, there was a theory that the inn was named for her, but that was not correct as it was known as the Belle Sauvage or Bell Savage long before her arrival.) The original inn burned down in the Great Fire of London, but it was rebuilt. In 1703, the Belle Sauvage was mentioned in a newspaper article in relation to damage to the building resulting from a severe windstorm.

La Belle Sauvage Inn and Yard

The Belle Sauvage became one of the famous coaching inns. In 1674, with 40 rooms and facilities for 100 horses, it was quite an enterprise. By the Regency era, it had stabling for approximately 400 horses and was known for sending coaches all over the country. (The Belle Sauvage was one of two inns on the London to Bath route-by 1667, a stage left at 5:00 am every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, and travellers were told they would complete the 105 mile trip in three days if all went well.) Routes expanded and coaches from the Belle Sauvage went to Colchester, Ely, Holyhead, Shrewsbury, Warwick and Windsor, to name a few. The hostlers would have changed horses (a fresh team harnessed to a coach to replace an exhausted team) while passengers hopefully had time to dine (dinners had to be timed for a coach’s arrival), some stayed the night, possibly to be ready for an early departure, and so forth. It was one of the main inns for mail coaches and stage coaches coming into and leaving London. Its proximity to the Fleet Prison also brought a clientele for meals. (Prisoners had to pay for food and beverages. Lucky prisoners had family or friends willing to bring them meals or the means to pay a jailor to bring food; the Belle Sauvage was handy for such custom. Local businessmen and others with business in the area also dined there.)

What amenities might have been enjoyed at La Belle Sauvage? In general, coaching inns offered breakfast, dinner, supper, and liquid refreshment. According to The Picture of London, for 1803: Being A Correct Guide to All the Curiosities, Amusements, Exhibitions, Public Establishments, and Remarkable Objects, In and Near London, The Belle Sauvage had a good coffee room (dining room), newspapers, and access to coaches to and from many regions of England. The guide book indicates it was popular with travellers. The Epicure's Almanack; or Calendar of Good Living, published in 1815, includes the Belle Sauvage in its list of places to dine in the Fleet Market area. Commended for a “well stocked larder”(1), The Epicure's Almanack indicates that the Belle Sauvage was not only popular with travellers but others as well. It does not provide a description of meals serviced or specialties, but apparently the Belle Sauvage was not one of the inns known for meals served badly prepared or timed so that travellers could not enjoy them.

There are also literary references to the Belle Sauvage (or Bell Savage). Sir Walter Scott named “the famous Bell-Savage” (2) in Kenilworth in Chapter 13, the inn where Wyland and Tressilian stayed. Kenilworth was first published January 28, 1821 and is set in 1575. Another literary reference was established when Charles Dickens alluded to the Belle Sauvage in The Pickwick Papers. The novel is set in the years1827-1831 and was originally published in installments between March 1836-November 1837. It features a character named Tony Weller (father of Sam Weller) who was a coachman whose coach arrived in and departed from London at La Belle Sauvage. It was also linked with the magazine Punch (founded in 1841). The men who produced the magazine met weekly over dinner to discuss and debate various subjects, and the Belle Sauvage was supposedly the site of such a dinner, possibly the first (I was unable to find an exact date).

Trains had been on the horizon since the late 18th century and steam engines a subject of study and experimentation in the early 19th century. Development continued, and in 1830, the Liverpool to Manchester route opened. The 1840’s saw a huge growth in the railroad systems (by 1844, over 2000 miles of line had been established) and, as the routes expanded, the need for coaching service diminished. Railroad travel was faster and provided more efficient service for the mail. As the coaching routes were no longer needed, coaching inns no longer drew customers. The railroad era finally put an end to La Belle Sauvage and, in 1873, it was torn down to allow for construction of a railway viaduct.
Footnotes:

(1) The Epicure's Almanack: Eating and Drinking in Regency London, ed. Janet Ing Freeman, pp. 77-78.

(2) Scott, Sir Walter. Kenilworth. P. 171.

Sources include:

Feltham, John. The Picture of London, For 1803: Being A Correct Guide to All the Curiosities, Amusements, Exhibitions, Public Establishments, and remarkable Objects, in and Near London. 1802: R. Phillips, London). A Nabu Public Domain Reprint.

Rylance, Ralph. The Epicure's Almanack: Eating and Drinking in Regency London The Original 1815 Guidebook, edited by Janet Ing Freeman. 2013: British Library, London.

Scott, Sir Walter. Kenilworth. A. L. Burt Co, New York. (Publishing date is not shown; appears to have been published about 1926)
Elizabethan Era. “Bell Savage Inn” by L. K. Alchin. HERE

thestreetnames.com “Pocahontas and her London Street Name Connection,” Elizabeth Steynor, 1/13/2017, HERE; “La Belle Sauvage Yard, Pocahontas and a dancing horse,” Elizabeth Steynor, 5/18/2015 HERE; “London’s Coffee Connections,” Elizabeth Steynor, 9/29/2014 HERE

AnInkyTale.co.uk. “Proprietors of Punch Magazine” Jane E. Chadwick, September 26, 2016 HERE.

British Heritage Online. “Travel Through Time at England’s Coaching Inns” by Sean McLachlan, July 1, 2009. HERE

British History Online. Walter Thornbury, 'Ludgate Hill', in Old and New London: Volume 1 (London, 1878), pp. 220-233 HERE.

English Historical Fiction Authors. “Coaching Inns in Early 19th Century England” by Julie Klassen, December 12, 2016. HERE; “Lloyds--Lifeblood of British Commerce and Starbucks of Its Day” by Linda Collison, July 30, 2012. HERE

Google Books. 1607: Jamestown and The New World. Compiled by Dennis Montgomery. 2007: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, Williamsburg, VA, in association with Rowman & Littlefield, New York. P. 140. HERE; Holland, J. G. Scribner's Monthly, An Illustrated Magazine for the People. Vol. XXII. (May, 1881 to Oct. 1881, inclusive). "In and Out of London with Dickens." P. 39. 1881: The Century Company, New York HERE; Spielman, Marion Harry. The History of Punch 1895: Cassell and Company, Ltd., London. HERE

London Online. “La Belle Sauvage.” (No author or post date shown.) HERE

The Word Wenches. “Travelling the Roads of Regency England with Louise Allen!” March 4, 2015. HERE

Parliament.UK. “Railways in Early 19th Century Britain.” (No author or post date shown.) HERE

Wicked William. “Principal Departures for London Coaches (1819)” by Greg Roberts, April 28, 2016 HERE

Pictures: Wikimedia Commons (Public Domain) HERE and HERE.

Lauren Gilbert, author of Heyerwood, A Novel, lives in Florida with her husband. She is a long-time member of JASNA, and is also a member of the Florida Writer's Association. Her next novel, A Rational Attachment, is due out soon. Visit her website for more information HERE.





Monday, December 12, 2016

Coaching Inns in Early 19th Century England

by Julie Klassen

Stage and mail coaches were the primary means of long-distance travel in England for about 200 years, from approximately the mid-17th century until the advent of trains in the mid-19th century. These coaches stopped every 7-10 miles (depending on terrain) at a network of coaching inns along various routes stretched across England.


Coaching inns provided vital support for the Royal Mail and stagecoach companies throughout Britain. (Some towns had multiple inns that competed for coach business.) The inns’ main function was to provide fresh horses, though they provided other services as well, like hiring out post-chaises to allow travelers to continue on to outlying areas. In many ways, coaching inns were restaurant, hotel, “Grand Central station,” travel agency, livery, repair shop, and sometimes post office, all rolled into one. I think it’s wonderful setting for a book, providing a backdrop for a cast of regulars who work in or frequent the inn, as well as new people traveling through to add interest—like royal mail guards and coachmen, traveling performers, aristocrats, and men (and sometimes women) of business.

Coaching inns stabled many horses, ready to replace tired teams with fresh, rested ones. These horses were contracted to stage lines or the Royal Mail, or were available to be hired by individuals. Trained horsemen or hostlers (“ostlers”) could change a team of four in as little as two-three minutes, and prided themselves on besting the times of competing inns. Quick turnovers were especially critical for the Royal Mail who rigorously adhered to delivery schedules. (Fines were levied for delays!) Occasionally, stops lasted a few minutes longer, giving passengers time to take refreshment or a hasty meal, requiring innkeepers to work quickly.

The domestic services of an inn were overseen by a housekeeper, often the wife or female relation of the owner. Some inns were famous for their fine service and good food. Others were known for taking advantage of passengers by providing undercooked meat, soup too hot to drink, or meals served too late to be eaten before passengers had to hurry back onto the coach for the next stage of their journey. Wealthy people traveling in their own carriage or post-chaise would often eat their meals in a private sitting room. In earlier times, more humble travelers would eat with the landlord in his parlour or even in the kitchen. But by the turn of the 19th century, common dining rooms or “coffee rooms,” as they were called, became more common.


Coaching inns were generally built around a central courtyard with a tall coach gate or archway leading from the open road into the yard within, where passengers were let down and horses changed. In more rustic inns, guests might share beds with strangers as in former times, while in better inns, more private quarters became available. Some traveler accounts of the period extol clean, spacious bedchambers with good furniture and immense four-post beds, piled so high with feather mattresses that one needed a step to climb into them. But even in the better inns, it must have been difficult to sleep with coaches arriving at all hours, horns blowing to announce their comings and goings, and horse hooves clattering on the cobblestones. Because of this, travel guides often advised coach passengers to spend the night at a hotel in town, rather than a bustling coaching inn.


Some inns were small, family-run establishments, and others were large operations with twenty or more staff, including blacksmiths, wheelwrights, and booking clerks. Some were grand “Posting Houses,” which catered exclusively to the wealthy who traveled in their own carriages or in post-chaises. Common coaching inns, meanwhile, accepted passengers from mail and stagecoaches, and some would even accept wagon passengers and travelers on foot.


As part of my research, I had the pleasure of visiting several historic English inns. I’ll highlight just a few of them here:

The George in Southwark is the last surviving galleried coaching inn in London, immortalized by Charles Dickens in his novel, Little Dorrit.


The Old Crown in the market town of Faringdon, Oxfordshire is a former coaching inn that dates back to at least the16th century. It retains several original features, including a cobbled inner courtyard and fountain.


The Red Lion in Salisbury was a stopping point for the renowned “Quicksilver” Royal Mail Coach on its route from London to Devonport, Plymouth.


The railroad ended the coaching era by around 1840, except in outlying areas not serviced by railway lines. After that, coaching inns declined or closed altogether. When leisure travel by automobile became popular eighty or ninety years later, many old inns began to revive. Today, travelers can visit numerous coaching inns in the beautiful English countryside to enjoy a pint, a meal, or a good night’s sleep in historical surroundings. In fact, doing so is a highlight of many visits to England, including my own.

Perhaps you have a favorite coaching inn to share as well?

Further Reading:
Historic Inns of England by Ted Bruning
The Romance of the Road by Cecil Aldin
Royal Mail Coaches by Frederick Wilkinson
Stagecoach Travel by Louise Allen

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Author Bio

JULIE KLASSEN loves all things Jane--Jane Eyre and Jane Austen. A graduate of the University of Illinois, Julie worked in publishing for sixteen years and now writes full-time. Her books have been honored with the Christy Award for Historical Romance, the Minnesota Book Award, and the Midwest Book Award, among others. Julie and her husband have two sons and live in a suburb of St. Paul, Minnesota. For more information, visit www.julieklassen.com.

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